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South City Kitchen Restaurant Review: Midtown’s hustle and bustle seems to tone down a notch at this renovated frame home-turned-hot-spot. Theatergoers convene before or after performances at nearby venues. The streetside patio in the shadow of high-rise office buildings and hotels provides a very urban experience. Chef Chip Ulbrich oversees the menu of classic low country dishes at both of its locations, Midtown, the original, and Vinings. While Ulbrich has brought his own touch to the menu, the restaurant’s classics, which include a lovely she-crab soup and the low country classic of shrimp, scallops and grits with a garlic cream gravy (the latter a benchmark of the genre), remain on the menu. The grits are locally produced at Logan Turnpike Mill in North Georgia. The beets are roasted in cane syrup, adding powerfully to their natural sweetness; atop is a pear and fennel slaw that, by itself, would make a wonderful dish. Oysters Rockefeller are done in a gratin version, making the struggle with a shell unnecessary. The grilled meatloaf comes on chipotle mashed spuds studded with corn, and the chicken and dumplings is a good version of the dish, despite not bearing much resemblance to the original. Gnocchi made with ricotta replace the classic flat Southern dumpling. Cornbread and biscuits are first-rate, and the spiffed up buttermilk pie is a luscious conclusion. The wine list does well with these dishes, but we wish there were some offerings from Southern vineyards to complete the culinary scenario. Bring your earplugs, though; hardwood floors and high ceilings raise the volume on the good times.