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480A Columbus Ave. (W. Newton St.) Send to Phone

Dinner Tues.-Sun.

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED South End Galleria Restaurant Review

: South End Galleria is run by the beguiling Abruzzi duo of Marisa Iocco and Rita D’Angelo. Some know them from Theater District fave Galleria Italiana, while others remember them from the late La Bettola. At the very least, Boston foodies owe them a debt of gratitude: They’ve launched the careers of star chefs like No. 9 Park’s Barbara Lynch, Ron Suhanosky of Nantucket’s Sfoglia and Rene Michelena of the upcoming Centro. South End Galleria is easily their best effort to date. It’s not only a vibrant expression of both D’Angelo’s and Iocco’s talents but also manages to sum up an entire neighborhood. With its hip marriage of taste and scene, this place may as well be the local canteen. Though D’Angelo does a bang-up job at schmoozing and maintaining a dolce-vita vibe, it’s Iocco’s cooking that makes a meal here memorable. She’s as instinctual as Italian cooks come, yet tempers her rugged flavors with global ideas and pan-Mediterranean flavors. Beef carpaccio is lushly textured, thanks to Parmigiano fonduta. Scallops are cooked ceviche-style, then tossed with arugula, bay leaves and a citrus dressing in a seductive play on Latin funk and Italian market sensibility. Risotto here is the best in town: Don’t miss anything containing wild mushrooms or truffles. Pastas are house-made, silken in the mouth and stylish to boot. Raffiche are Abruzzese gnocchi flavored with mustard and basil with salmon béchamel on mop-me duty. Cavatelli are tossed with a deeply flavored vegetable ragu and brodo. Proteins are killer, as well: Smoked lamb with mashed leeks, monkfish osso bucco with green pepper gnocchi, flounder involtina. We should be so lucky as to have a Galleria in every neighborhood.


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