 Spago Restaurant Review: Among the first wave of nationwide fine-dining imports to come to Las Vegas, Wolfgang Puck's Spago is still one of the best. Executive chef Eric Klein, a native of Alsace, replicates the sophisticated and daily changing fare in the Puck tradition and conjures innovative tastes using all natural, fresh and organic ingredients. Klein formerly worked at Spago Beverly Hills, among other Puck establishments, as well as Wynn Las Vegas’ SW and FIX in Bellagio. When in season, we recommend the blue crab cakes with orange-fennel marmalade, and the Hong Kong-style steamed Loch Duart salmon with bok choy, snap peas and ponzu sauce. Slow-braised beef short ribs are paired with handmade ricotta gnocchi, roasted tomato and olive sauce. In Spago’s café, fronting the fine dining room and good for no-reservations eating and people-watching, the signature smoked salmon pizza with dill cream, black caviar and chives is a winner. We also like the meatloaf with various preparations, such as a pancetta wrapping and accompaniments including mashed potatoes, mushroom gravy and onion rings. Among desserts are Key lime pie baked Alaska with lime gelato, graham cracker ice cream and huckleberry compote. The wine list nicely complements the creative cuisine.
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