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410 E. Seventh Ave. (Grant St.) Send to Phone
Mid-century modern combines with '50s hip in a sophisticated American bistro.

Dinner Tues.-Sat.

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Sparrow Restaurant Review

: Soft sage and terra-cotta hues spiced with big, hot-pink floral arrangements set the tone. Early evenings, young politicos crowd the horseshoe-shaped bar enjoying drinks named after birds, including the sparrow (prosecco, orange-saffron sorbet and Grand Marnier) and the peacock (orange grappa shaken with fresh lime juice and a splash of cranberry). In summer, big sash windows open up to the umbrella-shaded patio and views to the park just behind the governor's mansion. The restaurant is quiet enough to hear the smooth jazz and soft bossa nova playing in the background. Chairs are sink-into comfortable, and tables far enough apart to allow private conversation. Our two favorite appetizers are the light-as-air tempura-fried calamari and spicy steamed mussels in a wine, basil and kafir lemon broth, with grilled bread for dipping. Main courses come in portions big enough to share. Bowls of bouillabaisse abound with juicy shrimp, mussels, clams and large chunks of lobster. Bacon-wrapped filet mignon is perfectly accompanied by humble sweet-and-sour collard greens. Even a simple Black Angus burger arrives impeccably cooked and garnished with homemade pickles. Save room for coffee-Frangelico mousse, classic baked Alaska and hot, freshly-made donuts. The extensive wine list ranges from the homey to highbrow.


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