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Square One Restaurant Review: A longtime, nostalgic favorite for many, Square One was sorely due for a refresher, and it finally got one. The dining room was redesigned in warm wood with contemporary art, and the menu is now distinctive and best described as modern bistro and comfort food with an Asian accent. Many otherwise familiar items come with a twist, whether it’s the Maryland crab cakes wrapped in rice paper and served with seven-pepper tartar sauce; roasted butternut squash agnolotti with spiced walnuts, ricotta salata and hazelnut brown butter; or a vegan vegetable tagine seasoned with harissa oil. Other selections include classics like duck rillette in country bacon butter with pickled condiments, and roasted breast of duck with parsnip purée, English peas and quince marmalade. Food adventurists will appreciate risk-taking offerings like grass-fed Angus New York strip with potato knish and bone marrow butter, or a salad of golden beets with pomegranate “caramel.” Gluten-free dishes are also available.