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St. Cecilia Restaurant Review: Atlanta restaurateur Ford Fry’s Mediterranean seafood establishment is a light-filled 11,000-square-foot space designed by Meyer Davis Studio featuring a second-floor private room. Playful, European beach-inspired photographs line the walls. On the main level, three stone chef’s tables together seat 12 in front of the icy crudo bar. A roaring mini-hearth visible in the shiny stainless steel open kitchen roasts the fish of the day. To start, select a classic cocktail or a glass of wine from the solidly composed wine list, an exciting assortment of unusual options. Then share an appetizer of salt cod beignets accompanied by lemon and a caper-studded aïoli. Other selections tempt too, however, including the range of raw fish and the grilled octopus. We went with scallops, nearly always on the menu, and hake, which is occasionally available; triggerfish and skate wing may appear from time to time, among the more unusual offerings. Chicken and steak constitute alternative proteins, while vegetarians may compose plates of vegetables and there are a couple of meat-free pasta dishes. Pastry chef Chrysta Poulos’ Italian-inspired desserts make choosing a difficult assignment: examples include panini di gelato and bomboloni (donuts) ﬁlled with house-made ricotta and honey-cinnamon syrup.