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St. Charles Exchange Restaurant Review: The room-length dark wood bar, exposed brick walls, buttoned leather banquettes and servers in white shirts and black aprons suggest a pre-Prohibition time warp at St. Charles Exchange. It’s fitting that the restaurant should serve potent cocktails with names like Devotion & Doubt and Regime Change Punch (both bourbon-based). Equally apropos, it occupies a former distillery along Louisville’s historic nineteenth-century “whiskey corridor.” In fact, the sunken brick courtyard with ivy-covered walls was once the distillery’s boiler room. Traditional Southern ingredients, including black-eyed peas and country ham, share plates with the trendy likes of risotto and lamb-fat fries. Accompany your cocktails with an order of the deviled eggs (stuffing changes daily) or smoked chicken wings cooked with buttermilk, black pepper and root beer. Among recommended entrées are the roasted game hen with pole beans and tomato beurre blanc, Scottish salmon with spinach mousse, rabbit croquettes with creamed shiitakes and English peas, and duck Diane, worth ordering for the accompanying yam croquettes alone. The carpetbagger steak comes with fried oysters and smoked blue cheese. Homemade ice creams headline an ever-changing dessert menu. In addition to a notable bourbon list, the wine list is composed largely of food-friendly American wines, and offers many by the glass.