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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED St. Louis Fish Market Restaurant Review: Construction is seriously afoot (as well as ahead) in this part of Laclede’s Landing, and the hotel that housed St. Louis Fish Market has closed. Still, the restaurant perseveres, with its street entrance and free parking, a bonus in this part of town. The unstuffy dining room décor harkens to the Prairie School. A large menu covers preparations that range from deep-fried to steamed, but the aficionados know to head for the chef’s special preparations---chef Phillip Paris can go to town when he’s allowed to. The kitchen uses high-quality seafood and cooks it carefully, but there are a few surprises here and there for those expecting the traditions. Neither bibs nor melted butter accompany the house equivalent of a very good shore dinner with lots of real lump crab meat, and no offer of a finger bowl (or even packaged wipes) after close encounters with a well cooked lobster. Desserts range from homey to haute. The wine list is large and rather serious, giving Paris an excuse to rock ‘n’ roll with the frequent wine dinners held here.