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Stella's Restaurant Review: Stella Dikos has returned with this latest iteration of Stella’s (her original restaurant was on Harrison Street, and then there was a subsequent move to Main Street before a five-year hiatus). The Greek/Mediterranean fare, at once rustic and sophisticated, includes keftedes (homemade beef and lamb meatballs); marides (fried smelts with skordalia); souvlaki; leg of lamb with roasted potatoes; grilled whole fish; and traditional moussaka and a vegetarian version, its béchamel as comforting as mashed potatoes sheltering shepherd’s pie and with robust layers of fragrant eggplant, artichokes heart, potato, fennel and caramelized onions. Salads burst with freshness and the reddest of tomatoes. For dessert, we suggest a fun twist on tradition, like a coffee frappe or chocolate hazelnut baklava from an ever-changing sweets list usually anchored with rice pudding. The place has a soothing hipness, all light woods as if drenched in Santorini sunshine with terra cotta accents. Straw-seated, ladder-back chairs surround the center communal table and banquettes line the small dining room. It fills fast, so make reservations or arrive for weeknight meze ora from 4 p.m.-6 p.m. with Greek wines and beers along with small plates for a song. Speaking of which, you’ll hear Greek music on the sound system while Greek films play out silently on the back wall. Bring home some of the magic with ingredients and prepared dishes from Stella’s Grocery across the street.