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T. Cook's Restaurant Review: Housed in the historic and classy Royal Palms Resort & Spa, T. Cook's embraces its special occasion mood while simultaneously welcoming a more casual, younger diner. A back-lit, glassed-in wine display is in; white tablecloths are out. But chef Todd Allison has only increased the appeal of this destination restaurant by incorporating a more modern flair. Dishes, such as striped bass crudo with estate grapefruit, Calabrese peppers, pickled ramps and trout roe, are unexpected and riveting. Still, Allison has brought back much of the original northern Mediterranean style, seen in roasted prawns with white beans, Spanish chorizo and parsley, and house-made saffron pappardelle tossed with braised lamb ragù, fresh chickpeas, mint, ricotta and Pecorino. Rich desserts are appropriate, and the chocolate praline torte, a milk chocolate mousse with caramelized banana anglaise and pretzel ice cream, doesn’t disappoint. The notable wine list keeps the excitement going, too, with rare bottles from boutique global vineyards.