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Tarry Lodge Restaurant Review: Powerhouse restaurateurs Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich brought the culinary expertise of chef Andy Nusser, under the management of Nancy Selzer, to Port Chester with Tarry Lodge. Housed in a one-hundred-year-old inn, the space has served the town in many ways, evolving over the past century from town meeting place to speakeasy during Prohibition. It was then transformed once again, this time into an Italian trattoria. Salads like the oven-baked octopus chickpea version drizzled with limoncello vinaigrette work especially well as a prelude to the heartier meat-centered entrées. These include the tender braised pork shank with fregula rossa and chestnut gremolata. The classic menu also features a variety of inventive pizzas, of which we recommend the home-style and spicy meatball, jalapeños and Fontina, and the savory pancetta, grilled eggplant, mozzarella and chives. Among the fresh handmade pastas, try the silky black spaghetti tossed with scallops, guanciale and chilis, and the al dente cavatelli with spicy sausage and rapini. Regional Italian labels predominate on the wine list. Desserts include mascarpone cheesecake with pignoli brittle and vanilla gelato, and crema bruciata with candied rhubarb.