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Tarry Lodge Restaurant Review: Powerhouse restaurateurs Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich brought the culinary expertise of chef Andy Nusser, under the management of Nancy Selzer, to Port Chester with Tarry Lodge. Housed in a one-hundred-year-old inn, the space has served the town in many ways, evolving over the past century from town meeting place to speakeasy during Prohibition. It was then transformed once again, this time into an Italian trattoria. The classic menu includes a variety of inventive pizzas, of which we recommend the clams, garlic and oregano, and the prosciutto, tomato, mozzarella and arugula. Fresh handmade pastas stand out as well; try the tagliatelle bolognese and the bay scallop and chili black fettuccine. Whole roasted branzino with fennel is flaky, moist and simply prepared to preserve the natural delicate flavors of the fish. The predominantly Italian-regional wine list consists of selections ranging from the reasonable (2006 Castelfeder Pinot Nero) to more extravagant choices (1999 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala). Italian style desserts include mascarpone cheesecake with pignoli brittle and vanilla gelato, and crema bruciata with candied rhubarb.