Open late with light menu after 10 p.m.
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Tautog's Restaurant Restaurant Review: With the swell of splashy high-rises along the oceanfront, it’s hard to get a whiff of “Old Beach.” But Bill Gambrell and Scott Ferguson believe in preservation and converted a weather-beaten cottage from the 1920s (when this was a fledgling resort area) into Tautog’s, a contemporary seafood restaurant. Reasonably priced sandwiches and entrées entice for their freshness and smart preparations: tuna is marinated in lime, olive oil and zesty red onions; baked mahi is encrusted with potato chips and finished with a roasted red pepper coulis and dill sour cream; sage and Granny Smith apples tart up the tartar sauce that accompanies crab cakes; and a ginger teriyaki sauce glazes salmon served over cucumber-seaweed salad. Weekly additions such as pepper-seared red fish over mustard greens highlight local ingredients, and there’s enough to delight non-sea-faring lovers, too. The wine list is thoughtfully composed and many selections are available by the glass. In warm weather, the porch is a must, while the cozy dining room with its fireplace is fine for a winter’s night as the surf batters the shore a half block away.