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Taverna Colleoni dell'Angelo Restaurant Review: Set just to the side of the Piazza Vecchio, this large restaurant sports a comfortable formality inside with tuxedo-clad waiters and an unpretentious gentility that makes lingering here a great luxury. There are many outdoor tables where you may watch life in the Piazza. Taverna Colleoni respects Lombardian culinary traditions while bringing them to a level of refinement, evoking wonderment about how the Italians do it with what seems like so little effort. The wine list is exceptionally good, worldwide in its scope, including American labels like Atlas Peak, Opus One and Rubicon; the tablecloths are heavy azure damask, set with lace doilies and fresh flowers. A meal might begin with an amuse of marinated salmon on greens and radicchio accompanied by sips of sparkling prosecco. For antipasti, dive into a plate of large shrimp, calamari and lentils scented with rosemary. Lovely pastas include trofie (tiny squiggly dumplings) with stewed tomatoes and Taleggio cheese; and tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms, cream and an unexpected spoonful or two of blueberries. A perfectly cooked monkfish has the curious addition of a lemon grass stalk that gives piquancy to a dressing of tomato and zucchini. A flavorful, tender veal medallion is dressed in a mushroom sauce and creamy yellow polenta. Treat yourself to a slice of rich savarin cake capped with spun sugar, complemented by a perfect espresso. When the Duomo bell chimes 100 times at 10 p.m., it's time to go home.