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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Torch

26 Charles St. (Beacon St.) Send to Phone
617-723-5939
These days, Evan Deluty's serene Beacon Hill bistro shows a lighter palette and a lighter palate.

Cuisine
Open
Dinner Tues.-Sun.
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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Torch Restaurant Review

: Upon the huge success of Stella, Evan Deluty's fans give his Beacon Hill flagship a chance. What they'll find is altogether different from the original. Revamped a couple of years back, the serene bistro is awash in a lightened color palette (although the copper-sheeted walls remain) and presents a simpler menu. Frankly, we preferred the previous incarnation. We know that Deluty, having cooked his way from Le Grenadin to Lutèce, is blessed with both rock-solid technique and copious creativity. While the former is everywhere evident, much less of the latter shows on these menus: Asian-tinged salmon tartare, classic roast chicken, crème brûlée, check, check, check. Our verdict: It's an excellent choice for conservative diners; adventurers, at least for now, should head elsewhere.



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