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Trader Vic's Restaurant Review: Off you go to Polynesia at Trader Vic's, with plenty of fruit-based mixed drinks --- mai tais, mojitos, Pimm's Cups and such --- that aim to capture the flavors of these exotic islands. The atmosphere suggests a movie set, with thatched roofs, bamboo decorative elements, and a faux-tropical environment. But surprisingly, the food is quite good, especially the fish and seafood. Some are old standby dishes, such as crab Rangoon (cream cheese and crab in a deep-fried won-ton wrapper), as this audience looks for familiar fare. A longtime favorite, the rack of lamb, cooked in the huge wood-burning oven that's part of the décor, is served with grilled pineapple and chutney. The chocolate macadamia nut tart keeps the exotic theme going for dessert. As to libations, while Trader Vic's is indeed cocktail country, the mostly American/Californian wine list offers some Champagnes and a few wines from other countries, mostly France, Chile and Italy. Expect fairly ordinary choices that don't go particularly well with the food and don't measure up to its quality. The overall experience is fun and kitschy.