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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Tradition by Pascal Restaurant Review: Pascal Olhats, OC’s unofficial French ambassador of gastronomy, changed the name of his intimate institution, explaining that he has “gone back to his classical French roots.” The restaurant remains elegant and friendly with low-key service, but now Olhats’s menu combines his many influences in France: growing up in Normandy, cooking with master chef Paul Bocuse in Lyon and serving Mediterranean specialties to royalty and celebrities in St. Tropez. Starters not to miss include the escargots Christine, which show up in a Staub cooking pot with an addictive butter and pesto sauce. If you are thinking about starting with some vegetables, don’t miss the beet salad, which comes with lemon-flavored goat cheese, crunchy pine nuts and a tangy balsamic vinaigrette. And regulars needn’t worry too much about changes: the thyme-crusted sea bass still holds its position as the menu’s highlight, along with a very Gallic bouillabaisse, roast quail, braised rabbit and coq au vin. The extensive wine list is, fortunately, mostly reasonably priced. Just ask the charming sommelier for help, whether you prefer a glass or a bottle. For a simple French meal without the fuss, check out Pascal Epicerie next door for fine cheeses, salads, freshly-made sandwiches, coffees or French wines to enjoy on the spot or to take home.