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Trey Yuen Restaurant Review: At the other end of the 24-mile-long Causeway Bridge, Trey Yuen abides under imported rosewood ceilings, with inlaid mother-of-pearl dining chairs and oversize windows. As you dine, gaze out at koi ponds, pagodas and manicured gardens. Shellfish, especially soft-shell crab, crawfish and shrimp, pair nicely with any number of sauces shimmering on the blue porcelain plates. Try the fresh, deep-fried trout glazed with the peppery, bittersweet flavors of the signature tong cho sauce. Its rival for supremacy is duck, a partly boned half-bird smoked with tea leaves and deep-fried to a pink, moist crispness. A pleasant surprise is the braised spiced lamb. All of the traditional appetizers are here (treat yourself to the Jade Garden Sampler), but the imaginative plate presentations and doting service seem to make it taste so much better than the usual fare. The wine list is adequate for the cuisine, but not terribly diverse. The best ending for a meal at Trey Yuen is the traditional lotus banana dessert.