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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED TROIS Restaurant Review: TROIS is as sophisticated as it is low-key. Swathed in white from floor to ceiling, the dining room's monochromatic palette is punctuated only by original art posted on six static fixtures. Todd Ginsberg is now at the stoves, replacing executive chef Jeremy Lieb. Simple presentations are never excessively adorned. Cauliflower soup, medium-bodied and daubed with a few tiny crisp croutons and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, performs beautifully as a light starter. Boeuf bourguignon is a study in the flavor of braised beef, here served with egg noodles, a great foil for the sauce and the baby-tender meat. For dessert? A coconut flan with pineapple confit and rosemary-lime sorbet. Details abound. Dinner guests are greeted by a complimentary glass of good Champagne and an amuse-bouche, while Evian is poured as the house water. A bar menu is fine for a quick late lunch, and features such dishes as sliders with duck fat-fried fries or a mixed green salad. The wine list is attuned to contemporary tastes, and showcases a range of wines from around the world, although California seems to rule.