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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Uglesich's Restaurant Review: It has been around since 1924---and looks it. The timeworn tabletops are littered with sauce-sodden paper napkins and bottles of Abita Amber, a popular local brew. The prospects for eventually being fed can be daunting. The methodology is to place your order at the counter, find a table and wait for the food to arrive via one tireless server. Fat salty oysters, some of the best in town, are shucked at the bar. Crispy fried shrimp cakes are paired with house-made mayonnaise flecked with tarragon and chipotle peppers. A top seller is Pauls Fantasy, trout sautéed in butter topped with perfectly cooked shrimp. Second place is probably taken by the mouth-watering fried seafood po boy sandwiches. One complaint: The owners are threatening retirement.