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Uni Restaurant Review: Uni is Ken Oringer’s sashimi bar in The Eliot Hotel. To put it bluntly, don't come here if you don't plan to overindulge. If you do, you're in for a treat. To nab one of the 15-20 seats in the posh, modern lounge (or handful at the raw bar) is to gain unique insight into the culinary possibilities of raw seafood. It comes from everywhere: Tokyo's Tsukiji Market, the Chilean coast, the brackish waters off our own Cape. The results are swimming-fresh. The menu changes daily due to availability and may include Maine sea urchin, Japanese yellowfin, Spanish bass or Faroe Islands salmon. The signature smoked uni spoon --- Maine sea urchin with a quail egg yolk and osetra caviar topped with chives --- tastes more of ancient mysteries than anything as pedestrian as flavor. Hon hamachi toro is an indulgence of fresh Japanese yellowtail belly topped with black truffle vinaigrette. The list goes on and on, a purely Oringerian catalog of exotic juxtapositions: monkfish liver; tuna ceviche with coconut, chiles and lemongrass; warm Kumamoto oysters with black garlic and Chinese sausage. The Uni experience tastes even better when paired with cocktails with names like the Corpse Reviver.