* Click here for rating key
Uni Restaurant Review: With Clio, Ken Oringer developed a reputation for groundbreaking creativity---at wallet-crumpling prices. With Uni, Clio's adjacent sashimi bar, he clinched it. To put it bluntly, don't come here if you don't plan to splurge. If you do, you're in for a treat. To nab one of the fifteen or twenty seats in the posh, modern lounge is to gain unique insight into the culinary possibilities of raw seafood. It comes from everywhere---Tokyo's Tsukiji Market, the Chilean coast, the brackish waters off our own Cape. The results are swimming-fresh. The signature uni spoon---sea urchin with a quail egg and caviar---tastes more of ancient mysteries than anything as pedestrian as flavor. Eel tempura with green-tea salt and shirred duck egg, however, sports rich, punchy flavor galore, along with textural contrast. The list goes on and on, a purely Oringerian catalog of exotic juxtapositions: lobster sashimi with pickled hearts of palm and greengage plums, sea urchin with ginger gelée and purple rice, live scallops with yuzu juice and truffle vinaigrette. For the fullest experience, visit Uni on Tuesday nights, when Oringer offers a $35 fixed-price menu complete with saké bombs (for the uninitiated: a glass of saké dropped into a Sapporo beer).