 Wine aficionado Piero Selvaggio, whose restaurants are renowned for their superb wine lists, has decorated his stylish Valentino as a monument to its 2,400 wines from around the world. A table for four sits in what appears to be a wine closet; another wine cellar-style room seats 55. The vaulted-ceiling main room is decorated with elegant earth tones splashed with color to complement the cuisine. Furnishings and artifacts from Italy include the terrazzo flooring, Venetian glass for the lighting and plush leather chairs. Sicilian-born Selvaggio reached his goal to bring the fine foods and culture of Italy to America. Expect Italian dishes you might not find elsewhere, plus excellent versions of classics that focus on the quality of the ingredients. Breads are baked in-house daily. Among imaginative appetizers are Sea of Cortez scallops wrapped in pancetta with white wine butter caper sauce and griddled breaded calamari served over arugula with balsamic syrup. The risotto is topped with smoked salmon and a Champagne sauce. Entrées from gifted executive chef Luciano Pellegrini include grilled Mediterranean bass with broccoli, couscous and baked cherry tomatoes, and roasted rack of veal with its own juice with radicchio mashed potatoes. For dessert, try the chocolate ravioli over berries and mint soup. To make the most out of a splendid dinner here, choose one of the multi-course tasting menus. The Sunday brunch offers a menu that includes a wild boar sausage scramble and house-smoked salmon omelet.
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