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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Van Gogh's Restaurant & Bar Restaurant Review: For northern suburbanites, this is one of the top choices for fine dining without a trip into Atlanta. The free-standing building houses several separate dining rooms, but it can still get loud when busy, which it usually is. Artwork from a nearby gallery decorates the brick walls. Chris and Michele Sedgwick have hit upon an appealing compromise between contemporary tastes and regional traditions. Executive chef Eddie García-Guzmán's cooking shines best when simple. A chilled gazpacho, based on nearly limpid fresh tomato juice, is set apart by a ceviche of lump crab in its center. But he also surprises with off-the-wall combinations of flavors. A native of Mexico, he places the tuna tartar on a bed of what he calls avocado relish, resembling an excellent guacamole, and flavors it with a soy ginger vinaigrette; the blend of textures and flavors is stellar. Maine lobster dumplings have more to do with Japanese cooking than they do with Maine, as they come in a seaweed-miso broth. Signature dishes for this operation include Van Gogh's lump crab cakes with citrus vinaigrette. The confit of pheasant and pheasant breast is topped with a slice of grilled tofu, an altogether too-far-afield garnish. A lime crème brûlée in a mango soup has too many distracting flavors going on to be pleasing. The wine list is an award winner, with vintages indicated and lots of good choices by the glass. These can get pricey, but they're worthwhile, such as the Veuve Clicquot NV for $15. Pours are generous. While many wines cost three figures, there is much depth in some of the more popular high-ticket items, such as a half dozen vintages of the Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, extensive Champagne choices, and a huge list of Meritage selection. Still, some bargains lurk among the expensive selections, such as the Daniel Gehrs Cabernet Franc for $41 and the Lurton Malbec for $38.