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Via Matta Restaurant Review: Via Matta has garnered quite a following since it opened, due in large part to well-known chef/owner Michael Schlow’s name behind the business. Hardwood floors, Italian glass and leather make for authentic atmospherics. The varied menu, however, is smartly restrained and intriguingly elegant. Classic dishes like veal and pork meatballs, spiced up in a tomato basil sauce, have become favorites. Schlow’s creative skills shine through in the crispy pork belly with celery root crema sweetened with brown sugar and spiced prunes over crispy lentils, as well as the much lighter variation on melanzane Parmigiana (crunchy eggplant with basil marinated tomatoes). We’re delighted to see the kitchen doing all kinds of things with quality produce: it doesn’t get much more refreshing than a marinated baby beet salad with orange, mascarpone and shaved chocolate, followed by tuna crudo with pickled apple, celery, yellow peppers and cashew milk, ending with a juicy sirloin and truffle poached potatoes, mushrooms and sweet dried fig. Come summer, the patio makes the short list for nightcaps and a plate of Mascaporeos.