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VOLT Restaurant Review: Executive chef Bryan Voltaggio, formerly of Charlie Palmer Steak and a “Top Chef” contender, has opened his own place, a very upscale venue in up-and-coming Frederick, Maryland. Still basically a farming community with a gloss of gentrification, Frederick is home to this eatery with white-on-white décor, white linen and a glam menu, all with a big-city price tag. Brunch stars such attractions as hot muffins or buttermilk biscuits, fennel breadsticks, french toast, buttermilk pancakes, and assorted savories, including Voltaggio’s standout hamburger served with hot kettle chips. Plentiful French-pressed hot coffee (his is good and locally roasted) plus much improved and attentive service add up to a pleasing experience. Voltaggio aims to utilize locally sourced goods, and that’s to his credit, as his cooking is first-class. Dinnertime brings à la carte entrées, which are limited to beef (an Angus cut), lamb from Jamison Farms, seafood and poultry, such as Muscovy duck with slightly tart endive. It's a seasonal menu, so keep an eye out for regular changes. Desserts include a combination of chocolate textures and tastes, ideal for chocoholics. And don't forget wine: the list is about 26 pages long, and filled with globally sourced selections.