THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Wallabout Seafood & Co.

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Wallabout Seafood & Co. Restaurant Review:

The elegant, simple space on a brownstone-lined block of Fort Greene is a lively neighborhood scene, with a sleek bar and a spiral staircase up to more tables on the second floor. Executive chef Cosmo Bisticas uses Mediterranean flavors and locally sourced ingredients, and he serves a roster of oyster specials, seafood stew and whole fish. The menu includes salads and dips, but seafood is the star of the show; when you have fresh seafood, it’s best to keep it straightforward, and the folks here understand this. Head-on garlic shrimp are sweet and gigantic; white anchovies are piquant in citrus/saffron vinaigrette. In a city overrun with octopus salads, the Wallabout dish, with tender tendrils, fava bean purée, pickled onions and fried capers, is memorably balanced. Paella errs on the gloppy side, but whole branzino is delicate and expertly cooked. The wine list is super short; however, the cocktails --- like a vodka, clam juice, lime juice, basil and birds eye chili concoction called The Old Man and the Sea --- are smart and tasty. Desserts, think tiramisu, a huge ice cream sundae and baklava, live up to the promise of well-loved classics.