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1197 Peachtree St. (14th St.) Send to Phone

Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner nightly, Brunch Sun.

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Wildwood Restaurant Review

: After a rich life galavanting all over the world---from Nigeria to Siberia, literally---Darryl Hill has found home in Atlanta, a city he finds to be lively by any measure and eager to dine out. Taking over the old Country Place in Colony Square, once a Peasant Corporation restaurant, Hill has opened what is likely to become a popular spot for residents of Colony Square and the adjacent Ansley Park neighborhood. After-hour-drinks office types are likely to stay for dinner and a few minutes of musci once they get an eyeful of this menu. Hill has decided on Southern food, including crab cakes as he knew them in his native Maryland. They’re moist and densely packed with crab. There’s an equally luxurious she-crab soup, here made with a lobster stock. It’s rich and addictive. The macaroni and cheese, made with five different cheeses, is a luxurious, creamy and cheesy version of what Mother used to make. Skip the gluey and tasteless sweet potato--ham dumplings, a good idea not well executed. Thick pork chops are stuffed with kale and served with applejack demi-glace. Fried catfish are sweet and crisp, but not distinctive and just a mite overbattered. The shrimp--and--goat cheese grits with plenty of sautéed peppers and cream sherry sauce is a taste treat from the Low Country that’s very worth having. The desserts reflect Southern flavors as well, from apple cobbler to the seriously good bread pudding---made with with chocolate and banana for emphasis. The wine list is excellent and ranges far and wide, supplying a good variety of regions and varietals.


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