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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Wine Cellar Restaurant Review: Due or not, fondue has made a comeback, as this swanky subterranean wine bar attests. Decked out in brick, granite and wrought-iron trim, it creates a lovely little setting for the romance its menu promotes: many of the signature hot pots are made for two to share. Though inventive variations---escargots in pesto, seafood in lemon grass broth, even the Crazy French with kangaroo, ostrich and rabbit tenders---tempt from every direction, don't give in too quickly; they don't always live up to their billing, whereas the classic Swiss, Bourguignon and, of course, dark chocolate versions are swoon-worthy. So is the 600-bottle wine list. But outrageous prices tend to sour the entire experience.