THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED By Word of Mouth

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED By Word of Mouth Restaurant Review:

When Ellen Cirillo, a former New York caterer, relocated here in 1983, friends suggested that she should serve a little lunch. The food's fame spread, of course, by word of mouth. Guests are led to display cases holding the day's menu items to choose entrées (and later desserts). The signature sun-dried-tomato-and-pesto pâté with mascarpone is one of our favorite starters. Regulars won't let the osso buco---served with a mound of porcini mushrooms---leave the menu. The restaurant's most popular dessert, and deservedly so, is two layers of chocolate fudge brownies bonded with a gooey chocolate ganache. For these rates, guests can dine in far more splendid surroundings (railroad tracks across the street often provide the music of the rails). But this place consistently packs 'em in. Consistently excellent food has a way of doing that.