 Rick Bayless’ young disciples-in-training --- you’ll see them while waiting in (very) long lines --- present tortas, juicy with slow-braised meat, from the wood-burning oven and bustle to plate just-fried churros at this little, LEED-certified sister to Topolobampo and Frontera Grill. As for that wait, it’s torture, if only because everything smells and, in the end, tastes so good. The focus here is spicy, smoky, Mexican street food. Our recommendations include the pepito (braised Tallgrass short ribs plied with caramelized onions, jack cheese, black beans and pickled jalapeño) and cochinita pibil, slow-cooked, achiote-swathed suckling pig with black beans, pickled jalapeños and a side of so-fiery habanero sauce. Both come from the aforementioned oven and arrive on chewy-crisp Labriola bread. Chips, salsa and guac, which are additional, are requisite. In the afternoon, restorative caldos (soups) expand the repertoire. House-made seasonal ice creams are a worthy indulgence. An array of fruity aguas frescas (behold the mango-lime), roasted-on-site cocoa for hot chocolate and cost-conscious (but craft) wines and beers tie the package together. If you happen to be at O’Hare Airport’s terminal one, check out Tortas Frontera for a virtual clone menu (along with flatbread-like molletes and a toppings-heavy guac bar).
|
Send to Phone 
XOCO Restaurant is one of our 2012
| Top 10 Chicago Value Restaurants
|
• Watch our exclusive interview with chef Rick Bayless on GAYOT.com's YouTube Channel.
