 Yoshi’s executive chef, Shotaro “Sho” Kamio, proves his skills as a craftsman in an artful setting worthy of the chicest corner in Manhattan. Housed on the ground floor of the Fillmore Heritage Center and the anchor of the long-awaited Fillmore Jazz Preservation District, the 3,500-square-foot restaurant, like the club across the lobby, was designed and built from the ground up. It is as impressive as it is striking, with soaring 45-foot ceilings dripping with long, organically shaped rice paper lanterns and gossamer draping. The Zen-like lounge up front is perfect for after-work nibbles and cocktails. Deep blue glowing glass curves around an upstairs lounge that opens to the club’s mezzanine. Below it, the real focal point: an enormous and well-equipped, large-staffed kitchen that would make the Iron Chefs green with envy. There, Kamio is the maestro of a passionate culinary orchestra, turning out beautiful modern Japanese cuisine that is more complex than it appears. Every ingredient shines on its own and yet there is an eloquent sense of harmony. Standouts include a silky and satisfying chawan mushi of spiny lobster, uni and foie gras; uni “risotto” with vanilla-infused cauliflower purée; Kurobuta pork prime rib with ginger sendai miso marinated with lemon-thyme jus; and herb-roasted big-eye red snapper. Sushi and sashimi are pristine and service matches the elegant surroundings. An izakaya pub menu, available at the bar, in the club and the lounge, offers inspired nibbles for those looking for a more casual meal.
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