 Zeffirino Restaurant Review: Gian Paolo Belloni, renowned in Italy for his Zeffirino in Genoa, has graced The Venetian with a $6 million, two-story, 400-seat restaurant. The wrought-iron gates at the restaurant’s entrance were imported from Italy, as were the furniture, china and linens embroidered with the name and year (1939) that the Genoa restaurant was opened by his father, Zeffirino. Dominating the Grand Canal-level casual café is a massive hand-crafted bar; its centerpiece is a rowboat usually filled with seafood on ice. A moderately priced three-course lunch menu offers many choices. A violinist-guitarist makes beautiful music nightly in the more formal dining room on the second floor, where the balcony overlooks the Grand Canal. For starters, we like the lobster salad and simple San Daniele prosciutto served with melon. Our favorite entrées are grilled whole Mediterranean sea bass treated only with garlic, olive oil, oregano, lemon juice and parsley. Risotto with porcini, pioppini and crimini mushrooms is a winner. Carnivores like the lightly breaded veal chop stuffed with Fontina cheese and served over a Barolo and Fontina fondue. Save room for a freshly baked pastry.
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