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Zoes Steak & Seafood Restaurant Review: Chef-owner Jerry Weihbrecht is nothing if not whimsical. He presents his habit-forming, five spice-dusted shrimp tempura in a Chinese take-out carton. He spins sugar for a cotton candy-esque dessert that’s more fun than a carnival ride. But he’s all about business, too. When his longtime partners decided to divest, he shuttered for only three months before finding new co-owners who share his vision for taking food seriously, but not themselves. And he brought in Marc Sauter, Hampton Roads’ preeminent sommelier, for a one-two, food-wine punch. While there’s something different offered practically every night --- given Weihbrecht’s imagination and use of what’s freshest from local producers --- standard bearers include Little Neck clams d’Asti, lobster, blue crab mac ‘n’ cheese and, for dessert, a signature “cup of hot chocolate” made with Valrhona. Weihbrecht prepares a range of cuts of 28-day-aged certified Angus beef with tempting sauces. Order from the “Smaller” or “Larger” menu sections, or choose three to seven courses, with or without wine, for an individualized Chef’s Tasting Menu. Pillow-strewn booths work equally well for romantic dates or deal-sealing dinners, and two serpentine booths (one overlooking the open kitchen) are good for groups. Some of the area’s best wine events happen here, and there are even wine lockers for connoisseurs.