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Zoes Steak & Seafood Restaurant Review: Zoe’s, begun by former chef-owner Jerry Weihbrecht, is nothing if not whimsical. Habit-forming, five spice-dusted shrimp tempura arrives in a Chinese take-out carton. Cherry pop rocks lace bacon-wrapped lobster. But while its current owners share his vision for taking food, but not themselves, seriously, there is just the right amount of gravitas to satisfy its upmarket clientele with partner Marc Sauter, Hampton Roads’ preeminent sommelier, providing a powerful one-two, food-wine punch. (Jesse Wykle is now the executive chef.) While there’s something different offered practically every night, standard bearers include Little Neck clams d’Asti, lobster, blue crab mac ‘n’ cheese and, for dessert, lemon panna cotta or a signature “cup of hot chocolate” made with Valrhona. Merino lamb loin with minted fava beans or caraway rockfish might make the menu, and there’s always a range of cuts of 28-day-aged certified Angus beef with tempting sauces. Order from the “Smaller” or “Larger” menu sections, or choose three to seven courses, with or without wine, for an individualized Chef’s Tasting Menu. Pillow-strewn booths work equally well for romantic dates or deal-sealing dinners, and two serpentine booths (one overlooking the open kitchen) are good for groups. Some of the area’s best wine events happen here, and there are even wine lockers for connoisseurs.