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Zuppa Restaurant Review: Zuppa puts an upscale spin on home-style Italian cooking. Located in the middle of a city block, the space boasts a stylish lounge flanked by comfortable window-view booths and accented by a modern granite bar serving top-shelf martinis and pours of Italian wines. Hardwood floors, warm earth tones, unfinished curios and country kitchen knick-knacks decorate the dining area. The seasonal menu is from chef David DiBari, a former disciple of Mario Batali. DiBari’s pastas are all made daily on the premises. Dishes include a meatless polpette with eggplant tossed in nonna’s tomato basil sugo. Pastas, like chitarra with Long Island clams, zucchini strings and pangrattato, showcase how simple preparations can yield complex flavors in Italian cuisine. Heartier fare such as the braised short rib with hazelnut powder over zucchini wheels will satisfy more carnivorous appetites. For dessert, there’s the “cubo,” an oven-baked chocolate cube with a molten fudge interior served with cappuccino gelato, and on the fruitier side, the “pera,” a saffron poached Bosc pear atop risotto pudding.