Bergen Hill

Bergen Hill Restaurant Review:

Times have changed --- Brooklyn refugees are heading to Manhattan, like the Carroll Gardens neighborhood spot Bergen Hill, which has a new home in Cooper Square. Bergen Hill is owned by Ravi DeRossi of Death & Co. and Daniel Kessler, the guitarist for the band Interpol. Charlie Bird’s Robert Bohr and Grant Reynolds have created the sophisticated, eclectic wine list, and Sother Teague is behind the cocktails. Chef Anthony Mongeluzzi expanded the Brooklyn menu, and shines the culinary spotlight on seafood and vegetables. Some of the dishes can be on the small and pricy side, but the hamachi crudo is super fresh and smooth as silk. Cauliflower toast with raisins and pine nuts transcends its simplicity, and langoustine with egg yolk carpaccio and crispy potatoes is well-balanced, if skimpy on the langoustine (or did it just seem that way because it was so good?). Olive oil cake with fragrant saffron ice cream is a subtle, delicious way to end a meal.