THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Cyrus

THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Cyrus Restaurant Review:

CYRUS HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS --- Healdsburg’s Cyrus compels a culinary pilgrimage beyond Napa Valley. Settle under archways bathed in warm lamplight as a caviar and Champagne cart rolls up to underscore the night’s theme: luxury. Tuck into any of five lavish caviars (slow-cooked egg yolk custard or powdered crème fraîche may be accompaniments), as co-owner/maître d’ Nick Peyton lays out the five- or eight-course tasting menu from co-owner and chef Douglas Keane. Keane’s cuisine exudes contemporary sensibility as he, along with chef Drew Glassell, globe-trots for inspiration while respecting seasonality. As an array of artisan breads (all made on premise) advances, so too do courses like ginger-bone marrow custard; foie gras torchon with pistachio and blood orange; John Dory with yuzu kosho butter and braised romaine; and crispy chicken thigh accompanied by truffled risotto and celery, and Parmesan froth. Unanticipated palate refreshers blur courses. Surrender to wine director Kevin Reilly for wine pairings from a grand collection. While choreographed attendants come with the territory, here nothing feels staged. All swap duties between tables and relay details with a gleam in their eyes --- indicative of impeccable training and personal faith in the offerings. The staff’s natural poise quashes pretense. Factor in the mixologist’s fancy cocktail formulas to start, and the heady cheese cart and pastry chef Nicole Plue’s desserts, perhaps a butterscotch ‘sundae’ with popcorn tuile and chocolate soil, as finales.