: A sense of whimsy prevails at Phillip Foss’ (ex-Lockwood) restaurant, featuring just a few in-demand tables. The brick-walled space, done up with white tablecloths, is at once low-key and artsy, tucked away and talked about. The BYO place serves elegant, funky meals in prix-fixe fashion, with courses ranging from squid ink capellini with crab, tomatoes and poppy seed to an oyster with tomatillos, jícama and “Dorito.”

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