Guard and Grace

Guard and Grace Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant: While Denver's dining landscape is saturated with shrines to beef, this progressive, high-roller ode to cattle from prolific chef-owner Troy Guard is a cut above the rest. The super-stylish quarters, furbished with a soaring walk-in wine cellar, chef's counter overlooking a huge open kitchen, posh lounge and raw bar, is a sight to behold, as are the starters, side dishes and slabs of steer.

Food & Drinks: Appetizers include fresh oysters; oak-fired octopus jazzed up with a white bean and celery salad; house-cured pork belly and carrots sharing space with herb yogurt and crumbles of pistachio. The beautifully seasoned bone-in rib-eye is a head-turner on every level. Side dishes include foraged mushrooms, loaded baked potatoes and crispy Brussels sprouts. For dessert, don't miss the sticky toffee cake. The wine room --- 3,000 bottles strong --- is deep, worldly and a study in liquid eye candy. And while the prices are lofty, it's easily one of the most notable wine lists in the city.