: People pack in at tables set just a bit too close for comfort at this unpretentious West Village bistro. The owners, brothers, are always working the floor and clearing plates. Settle in with an affordable red from Burgundy off the French-centric wine list. All the favorite dishes are here: the foie, the escargots. Steak tartare is notable, as are the mussels marinières served with thick cut, skin-on fries. Coq au vin is traditional, and while the truffled gnocchi is not, the dumplings are light and creamy all the same. As expected, crème brûlée is among desserts, but the rich and fluffy chocolate mousse is a better bet.

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