: Portland chef Andy Ricker holds his own with Thai Town’s best and most authentic at his PDX offshoot. The Chinatown setting is simultaneously quaint, cozy and modern, and the 200 seats are almost always packed. On warm evenings, opt for the charming patio beneath a high grapevine canopy twinkling with lights --- the perfect spot to throw back icy Singhas or a well-crafted cocktail like the tamarind whiskey sour. Naturally, a dynamic menu of “drinking food” starts things off, though you needn’t drink to enjoy it. The signature fish sauce wings are as deliciously pungent as they sound, caramelized with garlic and sugar. Sour-cured pork riblets and an Isaan-style buffalo jerky, deep-fried with coriander and lime leaves, are also good for sharing. From the grill, we recommend a tender, flavorful boar collar rubbed with spices and cooked over charcoal. Chicken khao soi curry noodle soup is brightened by house-pressed fresh coconut milk. Larger dishes delve into Ricker’s repertoire of Northern Thai specialties; we’re fond of the giant prawns baked in a clay pot with pork belly, vegetables and bean thread noodles. Durian-scented coconut custard is described as a “gateway” to the notoriously stinky durian --- indeed, it may be.

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