Shibucho

Shibucho Restaurant Review:

This standout sushi bar sits on an unglamorous stretch of Beverly Boulevard. A little taste of Tokyo in L.A., the small, wood-clad restaurant is cozy and warm, with polished black pebbles embedded in the floor and eclectic art on the walls. Chef-owner Shige Kudo --- a colorful host with a shock of white hair --- has been preparing traditional-style sushi here for more than 25 years. Fish is impeccably fresh: velvety monkfish liver, plump oysters, and tuna sashimi topped with miso sauce. Although most items are very old school and lack the flashy innovation many Angelenos have come to expect, the chef --- who has a weakness for wild mushrooms --- will come up with some interesting twists from time to time. Should you be interested in forsaking your saké for wine, you'll be surprised to discover that Shibucho maintains an impressive list. The owner insists that well-aged Bordeaux is a fine complement to sushi, and his selection includes old vintages from prestigious châteaux at reasonable prices, especially when compared to what you'll find at most fine French restaurants. Desserts are also a pleasant surprise, with classics like poached pears and tiramisu.