 THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Trois Familia Restaurant Review: This slyly offbeat daily Silver Lake brunch spot is a collaboration from Ludo Lefebvre, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo (Trois Mec, Petit Trois). One might expect a “French-Mexican” concept from this trio to be precious or pretentious, but it’s not; instead, dishes straddle the traditional and the artistically edgy. Chilaquiles, for example, are a crisp square of delicate hash browns topped with a sunny side up egg, cotija cheese and fresh salsa --- but the sum tastes like much more than the parts, due largely to the subtle seasonings. Anson Mills grits offer a textural base to a medley of mole butter, mushrooms, crème fraîche, pepitas and scallions, balancing rich and fresh flavors. You may not know you want Burgundy escargots with this same mole butter for breakfast, but you do. And for those craving sweet instead of savory, the churro french toast with Salt & Straw vanilla ice cream and Mexican chocolate is a bright start to the day. A handsome local crowd fills the cheerful storefront with lively energy, chatting over whitewashed picnic tables, and sipping house coffee out of classic enameled camping mugs. (No espresso drinks here.) On weekends, be prepared to wait in line. |
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