Villanelle

Villanelle Restaurant Review:

Villanelle incorporates country-inspired elements with plenty of wood, such as teak barstools, mid-century chairs made with handwoven cord and sustainable wood, oak tables and floors, and gray-washed pine walls. Chef Nick Licata (formerly of Degustation and Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar) offers a veggie-forward menu highlighting seasonal produce from the Union Square Greenmarket. A dish of sunchokes showcased the ingredient four ways: purée, braised hearts, crispy skin and sunchoke-infused trout roe atop tangy crème fraîche. Cured scallops from Peconic Bay were brightened with apple and celery. Larger plates bring slow-braised pork cheeks tucked under a layer of lardo, with carrots and carrot greens to temper the richness, and silky slow-poached Arctic char with sorrel, dill oil and caramelized cream. Parsnips for dessert? Why not? At Villanelle, they have been prepared first roasted, then braised in butter and served with white chocolate and crispy parsnip skin. Signature items range from beef with salsa verde to preserved tuna. GM James Shields, formerly of Jean-Georges and Betony, helms the beverage program. Cocktails like The Wasteland, a bourbon Old Fashioned with black pepper and maple syrup, are inspired by famous poets. (The restaurant’s name references a 16th-century Neapolitan style of poetry consisting of 19 lines.) A thoughtfully curated wine list features bottles from around the world, including some very affordable selections.