THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED 5' (Five Feet)

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED 5' (Five Feet) Restaurant Review:

Out goes Le Colonial, in comes 5' (read: five feet) to this Los Angeles central location. Well-established restaurateur Michael Kang has brought to 5' the gang that made a success of the 5' in Laguna Beach, including executive chef Eric N'Guyen. Some touches have lightened up a bit the nostalgic---note the superb floor tiles---and refreshing décor evocative of French Indochina. A seashell-clad central pillar seemingly surges up from the bottom of the Gulf of Tonkin. A rose petal sheds a colorful pearl on your napkin. Lighter tones rejuvenate the attractive bar (which, indeed, was the highlight of Le Colonial) on the second floor. It boasts additional tables and a private party lounge. That's Southeast Asian territory for sure, as confirmed by the menu. After dim sum-style starters dubbed Flatteries, such as goat cheese wontons, Mama Kang's potstickers, or the international combination of the Vietnamese lobster spring rolls with the Chinese chicken spring rolls, we are enticed to approach the mysterious encounter of the Phoenix and Dragon dish. This reveals itself as a simpler alliance of scallops and chicken over Chinese eggplant and noodles. The signature dish is an enormous and satisfying fried catfish in a sweet-and-sour sauce on a bed of cilantro and slivered leeks. The seared sea bass with orange fennel broth is denominated The French Connection, probably a wink to the French influence, while the luau lamb obviously hails from Polynesia. Nice voyages for sure, but the risk is that these extensive visits with so many different inspirations can be a bit disorienting. Just a touch of simplicity would greatly help. Desserts concocted by Lizzie are well focused and crown the meal. Service is very attentive. The 5:15 Lounge next door has saké tastings on Wednesdays and a small menu.