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Al-Watan opened in the nondescript LAX-adjacent hamlet of Hawthorne in 1984. Mohammed Mumtaz purchased the restaurant, the name of which roughly translates as "Your Homeland," in 1989. It remains a family-run operation that now includes an adjacent butcher shop and grocery. The décor consists of two mirror-walled rooms with tile floors, and TVs that have been known to show Indian soap operas. Happily, Mumtaz's Indian-Pakistani cooking leaves a stronger impression. For variety’s sake, order “Mix Tandoori,” a sizzling platter piled high with spice-crusted chicken, minced beef sausages and beef, all served on a bed of caramelized onions. The standout vegetable dish is okra, cooked with sliced jalapeños and onions. For adventurous eaters, there are three organ meat dishes, (including stir-fried beef brain) plus haleem, a spreadable beef and lentil mixture. The must-have Friday special is lamb pulao, spiced rice topped with a Flintstones-sized shank. Be sure to order vegetable biryani or puffy naan to soak up any leftover well-flavored sauce from your main course. The top drink: thick, rich and colorful mango lassi. For dessert, dig into gajer ka halwa, a milk-soaked carrot dish served hot, or kheer, a cool rice pudding.
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Al-Watan Restaurant is one of our 2012
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