Alden Parkview on Peachtree Jared Hucks The Alden

The Alden Awards

Locally produced raw materials compose a striking menu of contemporary American fare at this Chamblee restaurant.
Openings: Dinner Tues.-Sat., Brunch Sun.

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The Alden, Chamblee, GA


The Alden Restaurant Review:



About the restaurant & décor: After working around the globe from Arzak in San Sebastián, Spain, to Noma in Copenhagen and Atlanta's Bacchanalia, Atlanta native Jared Hucks opened his own place. Collaborating closely with architect Andrew Amor, Hucks crafted a sleek environment that cleverly positions noise-suppressing components in the ceiling. As a result, despite a vigorous vibe, one hears easily at the well-spaced tables. Georgia limestone forming columns on the interior of the outside wall anchors a muted palette of earth and gray tones, emboldened by a dark painted and glazed concrete floor. Glass art by Hucks’ brother, Miami-based glass artist Rob Stern, reflects the family's artistic sensibilities.

Likes: The tempered noise levels; the chef's tasting bar; serving sparkling wines in white wine glasses rather than in flutes.
Dislikes: Artful touches to the plates, such as dustings of various powders that please the eye but contribute little if anything to the flavors.

About the food & drinks: The chef's bar surrounds an open kitchen, where the day's tasting menu, priced at $75 (not including beverages), is served. A separate bar showcases craft cocktails and brews, including Atlanta-based Urban Tree's delicious "Original" cider. The menu makes good use of local flavors, such as a tender pork belly glazed with sorghum. But seafood is the featured protein. We loved the grilled scallops on a small plate adorned with deep-fried crispy kale. These "smaller dishes" could act as mains for lighter appetites. Among larger plates, we suggest the wild-caught striped bass with braised endive and beurre rouge. Despite being skeptical about its touch of black currant, we thought the berry's subtle presence enhanced the dish. Creativity for vegetarians shows in the parsnip tortellini with Brussel sprouts, pomegranate and sage brown butter. Artisanal cheeses are available. There is a pair of dessert cocktails, and the apple cobbler with quince gelato and bourbon caramel elevates this rustic classic to prime time. A thoughtfully composed wine list, moderate in length, highlights Champagnes and post-prandials. Choices by the glass are unusual and worthy, inviting exploration.