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Barclay Prime Restaurant Review: Call it the anti-steakhouse steakhouse. Barclay Prime is nothing like the usual clubby, manly-man steakhouses that dominate the scene. Sleek, modern, white-on-white, this beef emporium appeals to carnivores with sophisticated, slightly retro tastes. The kitchen delivers a fresh take on the typical offerings, like truffled beef tartare, Kobe sliders and, if the calendar is right, a soft-shell appetizer, tempura battered atop avocado with a smoky tomato-chipotle vinaigrette. Get anything with Nueske’s bacon on it; in fact, this apple wood-smoked royalty of swine comes as a side dish all by itself. Other sides include creamed spinach, truffle mac ‘n’ cheese and tater tots --- unlike any you’ve tasted before. You can have Dover sole, seared ahi or whole branzino, but it would be a crime to miss the 16-ounce strip steak, aged for 28 days and quite tender, as is the Australian Wagyu, offered for $85 for an eight-ounce filet. A pub menu ratchets down the prices, including items like Bucks County ribs and a dry-aged burger. Service is professional, and the desserts by pastry chef Frank Urso rival any in town --- try his devil’s food cake with salted caramel, milk chocolate crunch and caramel buttercream.