November 1990

To be or not to be the best? That is the question, and also the raison d'être, of scores of young chefs around the country. The revolution that shook French ovens twenty years ago, when Gault Millau revealed the birth of nouvelle cuisine, has now spread to the entire world. Previously unsung talents have emerged. Gourmet eating is no longer a guarded privilege enjoyed by a pampered few. Naturally influenced in the beginning by its European roots, America has integrated the flavors of Asia and Latin America into the melting pot, and succeeded in creating at least half-a-dozen original, genuinely American cuisines: Californian; American nouvelle; Northwestern; Southwest; Cajun; Creole; Floridian; and guess what—even Alpine American.

No one will be surprised to find that the best restaurants are located in large, cosmopolitan areas: money draws; and the ready cash in urban areas seeds terrific restaurants. But there are creative talents all over the country that need to be encouraged. Accordingly, we have searched for the best in the rest of America as well. And this explains our far-reaching list of the best.

We've been busily honing our reviewing skills over the past thirty years in restaurants, auberges, inns, cabarets, posadas and weinstüben, and yes, our choices are subjective. Agree or disagree with our conclusions, it's up to you.

Vive la démocratie!