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Mama's place hardly looks like a country rib shack, thanks to the premises' former tenant, a contemporary Mediterranean restaurant with trendy aspirations. The mirrored room is stylishly spare, with walls painted in cinnamon, mocha and pumpkin hues, and some tables dressed in white linen. The seemingly endless menu offers barbecued chicken, pork and beef; Louisiana items like jambalaya, filé gumbo, blackened red fish, shrimp Creole, and po' boy sandwiches; plus fried chicken, catfish and the usual country fixin's. The fried catfish is a bit heavy and the baby-back ribs, while full of flavor, just don’t pull off the bones like at some of the city’s top rib joints. Nonetheless, most dishes are reliable antidotes for our occasional Southern cravings, and Big Mama’s does a fine job catering special events.
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