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Bistro Le Relais Restaurant Review: Bistro Le Relais’ Art Deco dining room is located in the 1920s Bowman Field airport terminal. It’s one of the most romantic spaces in the city. The wicker-furnished deck overlooking the airfield is just as appealing when the weather is fine. Chef Alexander Dulaney’s French bistro menu includes mussels steamed in white wine and served with pommes frites. Plump escargots are traditionally prepared with garlic butter. Pâte du chef is appropriate for a summer meal when accompanied by the Lyonnaise salad of fresh spinach with bacon lardons, poached egg and mustard vinaigrette. Entrées span from duck confit with lentils to bouillabaisse, beef Bourguignon and trout meunière. At the outset of the meal, you'll be asked if you wish to order a soufflé for dessert. Say “yes.” Owner Anthony Dike is always on hand to make recommendations from the wine list, which is almost equally divided between French and American selections. Know that this is one of the few restaurants in the city where you can order a Dubonnet and soda as an apéritif and cap your evening with a snifter of Calvados.