 Carnevino Restaurant Review: Though Mario Batali is best known for his Italian creations, his venture at The Palazzo adds a whole new dimension to his repertoire. Taking cues from the Tuscan Chianina tradition, Batali celebrates beef at Carnevino, beginning with the giant statue of a bull at the entrance of the restaurant. The spacious room is understated but bustling, and has the vibe of a true Vegas steakhouse. Starters, such as the affettati misti for the table, showcase executive chef Nicole Brisson's talent at making salumi in-house, with servings of mortadella, lardo, coppa and salami Calabrese. The lobster Crudo/Cotto presents a two-pound lobster two ways: the tail as fresh sashimi and the knuckles and claws done in a light tempura. The pasta selections, such as the bucatini all'amatriciana, can be found on the menus of Batali's other Vegas venues, so the shining star here is truly the beef. All from domestic sources and bred hormone- and antibiotic-free, the beef is dry-aged, then rubbed with sea salt, black pepper and fresh rosemary. The result of such careful treatment is simply a good and natural-tasting steak. An abundant rib-eye for two comes with a nicely charred crust, and cooked as ordered. Other hits include the beef tartare, bound with olive oil instead of egg for a fruitier finish. Partner Joe Bastianich's wine list, predominantly Italian and heavy on the reds, is built right into the menu, completing the vino portion of the name. The mini bombolini, or sugar-coated donuts, are always a favorite to end the meal.
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